Sunday, March 25, 2012

Letter from Burma: Reunion, Union - 2

 

Inline image 1
Myanmar pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi, center, delivers a speech during her election campaign rally in Meikhtila, central Myanmar, March 5, 2012. Others are unidentified. (AP Photo/Khin Maung Win)
Last month I wrote about the joy of welcoming the members of the Karen peace delegation and finding that it was more like a family reunion than a first meeting between strangers. The atmosphere was warm and relaxed, it felt as natural to address the leader of the delegation, the octogenarian General Saw Htay Maung, as "A-ba," ("Father") as to address the thirty-two year old Colonel 'Tiger' as "Son."
Dedicated, disciplined and courteous, the latter was the kind of young officer any army should be proud to claim as its own. Why were we wasting our precious human resources through disunity and dissension when so much could be achieved through unity and cooperation? The different ethnic nationalities in our country are our strength, our insurance for a bright future.
When I was a child I spent long moments looking at a large photograph that hung in our dining room. My father dressed in shabby khaki, his head swathed in a Kachin turban, a Kachin sword slung across his chest, sat in the centre, the sole man surrounded by a bevy of Kachin beauties. It had been taken in Myitkyina and everybody was smiling broadly. My mother had explained that they were all laughing because just as the photographer was about to press the button somebody had shouted out to my father: "Bogyoke (General), won't your wife be furious?" This photograph was loved not only by me but by many others as well because my father usually appeared before the camera stern and unsmiling, very much a man totally given over to the demands of his military and political duties.
Another photograph taken on the same occasion as the happy group also hung in the dining room. My father stood alone looking straight into the lens, smiling, young, happy and handsome. I came to the conclusion that he must have been happy in Myitkyina. There was a radiance to him that was more than a simple reaction to a small joke. As I grew older I began to understand the reason behind my father's unusually sunny mood in Myitkyina. The meetings with Kachin and other ethnic nationality leaders had gone well and the spirit of Union had begun to materialize
Myitkyina became, in my youthful imagination, the 'happy land.' My first visit to this town only strengthened my early impressions. It was the summer holidays and my mother was going to convene a conference on Social Welfare in Myitkyina. Our party was big and we enjoyed two delightful nights and days on a train that took us steadily north through the heart of Burma. When we reached Myitkyina on the third day, I was immediately charmed by the peaceful town and the breathtaking views. We bathed in the limpid waters of Myitsone, the confluence of the Irrawaddy, now widely known because of controversies related to the Eight Dams project and environmental degradation, then famed only for its beauty. We watched a performance of traditional dances and I found that not only were the girls as pretty as the ones who had been photographed with my father, the men were dashing and attractive as well. It was altogether one of the happiest times of my life and I came away convinced that where our ethnic brethren lived, there was to be found beauty and joy.
My second visit to Myitkyina took place in April 1989. I went there as the General Secretary of the newly founded National League for Democracy and our rather large group was welcomed warmly by a retired army officer, the leader of a Kachin political party, also newly founded. He put his house as well as the resources of his party at our disposal with unstinting generosity. We campaigned tirelessly, made many friends, our young people ate the large star apple tree in his garden bare of all its fruit and we went back to Rangoon contented and glowing from our sojourn in the Kachin lands.
My third visit to Myitkyina that took place in 2003 was not so happy. The people appeared nervous, the brightness that I remembered had dimmed noticeably. Some local officials had decreed that traditional ethnic costumes were not to be worn while I was in town (this would have appeared too welcoming) and our supporters were threatened with unpleasant consequences. Our party members and other brave townsfolk defied the threats and turned up in their beautiful costumes to listen to a speech I gave from the balcony of a house.
The oppressive atmosphere was not confined to the town of Myitkyina; it also hung over the other parts of the Kachin state that we journeyed through. But one day we hit an unexpected bright spot. We had been going along for hours in what was to us unknown terrain, barely able to take in our surroundings, we were so exhausted. Suddenly, we became aware of young, smartly turned our soldiers, friendly and respectful, lining the road we were driving through. We were puzzled for a bit, then realized that the Kachin Independence Army, which at that time had come to a ceasefire agreement with the State Peace and Development Council (the military government) had provided us with a security guard. It was a courtesy I shall never forget. Later the KIA helped to dig one of our cars out from the thick mud in which it was stuck and made arrangements for it to be towed to the nearest town for necessary repairs. Thus in spite of all our difficulties the trip ended on a hopeful note, the enduring spirit of Union rising above arbitrary barriers. (By Aung San Suu Kyi)
(Mainichi Japan) March 25, 2012

No comments: